Busy day today. First, I broke the deck and hull free of the stations. I started by cutting through the hot-glue that I had put periodically between the deck shear strip and the hull shear strip. Next, I pried that joint open enough to fit a screw driver in between (see video) in order to tap the stations hard enough to break the hot-glue holding the strips in place. It was actually a lot easier than I expected.

Next, I removed the deck (see video.) I had to cut through the internal stem pieces in the front and back along the shear line since there are a few strips on the deck that glue to them. Then I carefully checked to make sure the whole deck was free. It took some rocking of the ends to get them to come loose. Then I lifted it free and set it on the ground.

Next, I flipped the hull and stations over in order to be able to remove the hull. It would have been easier if I had another person to help to just lift the strong-back out at this point, but my method worked fine. I removed the hull (see video) and then cleaned up the hot-glue from the stations to make sure that the deck and hull would sit back on them without any problems.

Next, I put the deck and hull back on the stations and marked the cockpit opening. I used Nick Schade’s method which he details in his book, which means cutting the opening in the plans and using that as a template (see photo.) I then flipped it over and did the mirror image on the other side. I cut it out as carefully as a I could with a scroll saw blade, but the blade was a little too coarse and it made for tough going. In the end, I managed and with some sanding, the opening looks good.

I made a fairing board out of some 1/4″ thick wood 3″ wide by 24″ long. I double-face taped a 24″ 40 grit sanding belt (cut open) onto it and hot-glued some handles (see photos.) This will be used for rough sanding and removing any high-spots before using an orbital sander for more finish sanding.

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