Well, after about 6 or 7 hours, the epoxy I used to seal the wood had become tack-free (at least mostly.) So, I began to unroll the fiber-glass onto it. I am using 50″ wide cloth giving me plenty of room, so the most efficient way is to have the cloth go slightly diagonally across the hull, so that the next layer can overlap into the tapered bit of cloth left over. Additionally, ‘glass has a tendency to conform better to curvature when it is cut at a bias. Once I had it rolled out, I trimmed it to within about 2 inches of the hull and then began to smooth it out with a dry brush (see video.)
Next came the epoxy. I applied it pretty much the same way as I sealed the hull, using a 3″ foam roller, working from one end to the other on one side of the keel, then the other side in the same direction (see video.) The ends need a little fussing to get the ‘glass to conform to the sharp curvature, but in the end it did so without difficulty. Once the whole hull was wetted-out, I went over the ‘glass with a squeegee to remove excess epoxy. You don’t want too much epoxy as it will “float” the ‘glass, at the same time, too little will prevent it from adhering to the wood. It should look wet but not glossy according to Nick Schade’s book.